This is an overdue write-up of last Sunday’s trip up Pillar. For one reason or another I haven’t got round to writing it until now. Penny had decided to stay at home to try to shake off her cold. I decided to look for some scrambling and solo mountaineering that would allow me to cover a large distance of interesting ground on rock. I consulted Scrambles and Easy Climbs in the Lake District and their Pillar Expedition caught my eye. This book has some excellent suggestions for mountaineering days out. I would highly recommend it to anyone who is keen on scrambling or easy rock climbs.

At this time of year I was able to have a leisurely start with now worries of benightment. This was the first time I had walked into Mosedale on the left side of the beck, it gave a different view and was a pleasant, grassy path. My first objective was Wistow Crags, a series of three tiers of solid rock that lead from Mosedale up towards Pillar’s summit. After the calm relaxing walk to the Y boulder and crossing the beck descending from Scoat Fell there was a steep ascent to the start of the scramble. Panting and sweating my way up with an ascent rate of between 12 and 16 metres a minute I quickly covered the 350m of hight gain.

The scramble itself is graded grade 2 and is given three stars. The guidebook gives a rough outline of a route but to be honest just heading upwards looking for the cleanest rock and most logical line worked for me. To keep some idea where you are the route has three sections. Initially there are two large buttresses one above the other separated by a large grassy ledge and then the gullies from either side get closer and the route becomes a ridge before finishing just below the path from Black Sail Pass to Pillar. It was on this final section that I saw a large fox, it seemed to be sunbathing and looked at me disdainfully before wandering off. There were many possible lines and routes that could be taken on the way up. I think my way was mainly grade 2 scrambling but did have some exposed moved of about diff. The rock was clean, dry and grippy (one advantage of being south-facing) but there were some loose blocks and was always climbing within myself well aware that I could not afford a loose hold to cause me to fall.

I had lunch just before joining the relatively busy path and then headed over Pillar’s summit and descended to the col above Pillar Rock and Pisgah. Here I left my bag and just took my rock boots with me as I descended to the west.

My next target was New West route on Pillar High Man. This is a classic route from the days when Pillar was a popular venue. Once on the route it was obvious with over 100 years worth of polish on the holds. It was an easy way through impressive terrain, with a memorable traverse and chimney, all blessed with plentiful massive holds. Once on the top of High Man the next problem is getting down. A group before me had obviously decided to abseil and left behind some ‘booty’. I was going to reverse Slab and Notch (M), this was well-marked with plenty of well-worn holds. It involved descending an easy chimney and then following jugs round to the right (looking out). After dropping down an arête also on good holds, the notch is passed through on the way to the slab. This is ascended to the top left corner where a final few easy moves allow the path below to be reached.

To finish off my day I wanted to summit Pisgah. I headed up East Jordan Gully to Jordan Gap (more booty) and then made a few exposed scrambling moves round to the right. Whilst this looked improbable, it was fine. A few easy moves led to the summit of Pisgah and the easy descent to my bag.

I did all this climbing and scrambling with rock boots on and my big boots tied round my neck and tucked into my jacket, it’s a difficult call, the descent to the start of the routes is unpleasant scree but the climbing would be better without carrying boots.

From here the most sensible (and interesting) route back to Wasdale Head would have been to follow the High Level Route. However I was on a high after all my scrambling and decided to reascend the hundred or so metres back up to Pillar (and the sunshine) and then follow the path towards Black Sail Pass. I cut the corner at Looking Stead and headed down breaking into a jog at times.

It was a great day, excellent mountaineering, solitude and sunshine on Wistow Crags, history and atmosphere on Pillar.

Posted from my iphone, photos and proofreading to follow.